Surf's Up! But High Rip Currents Warn Beachgoers - KMSP-TV

Surf's Up! But High Rip Currents Warn Beachgoers

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Huntington Beach, CA -

(FOX 11 / AP / CNS) High surf and strong rip currents will pose a threat to beach users in Los Angeles, Santa Barbara and Orange Counties both in and out of the water this week, meteorologists said.

"A series of large long-period northwest swells generated by storms moving over the North-Central Pacific will bring high surf and strong rip currents to portions of the Orange and San Diego County coast though most of this week," according to the National Weather Service.

The agency issued a high surf advisory from 5 a.m. Monday to noon Wednesday, saying the first peak should arrive early Monday and a second swell will arrive late tonight and peak late Tuesday.

"A third and potentially larger swell is expected on Friday and Saturday, continuing the large surf and strong rip currents for Southern California beaches," the NWS advisory said.

The highest surf will be along exposed west facing beaches...especially from Manhattan Beach to Cabrillo Beach. Surf 4 to 6 feet with local sets to 8 feet across west facing beaches through tonight...building to 5 to 7 feet with local sets to 9 feet on Tuesday.

The agency said that by Wednesday morning, the surf will lower to 3 to 6 feet by Wednesday afternoon into Thursday.

An even more energetic westerly swell is expected to overspread the coastal waters later this week. As a result...high surf will likely return Friday into Saturday to all exposed west and northwest facing shores from San Luis Obispo County to Los Angeles County.

"High surf and strong rip currents will be dangerous for swimmers, especially those that are inexperienced," an NWS advisory said, noting large waves may also pose a threat to people standing on jetties, rocks or sea walls near the waters' edge.

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